Friday, May 18, 2012

Koco's Pub

Out of necessity, I've been eating a lot of crab cakes. Only the smoked crab cake from Pierpoint has come even close my Platonic ideal of what a crab cake should be; most have left something to be desired.

Not the crab cake at Koco's.

I'm always skeptical about the crab cakes that have "Baltimore's Best" flags all over them, so I figured Koco's might just be another pretender to the throne. But oh no, baby, it was the real deal. Real, sweet, moist blue crab meat held together with a minimum of filler (it wasn't even detectable) and a maximum of luscious, mayonnaise-y, perfectly-seasoned, binder. This behemoth weighed 10-12 oz easy and was plenty to share.

The Kaiser roll (never one of my favorite forms of carbohydrate) was not a good match for the crab, which needed something more delicate and airy. Every bite caused crab meat to shoot out of the back end into the basket. Mr Minx was happy to retrieve those errant bits for his own enjoyment.

His dinner of choice was the chicken wings, which have also received a Baltimore's Best nod. They were large specimens, cooked all the way through, but I thought they were a little tough. The raspberry jalapeno sauce was unusual, and neither as hot or as sweet as expected.

The bar crowd at Koco's on this particular evening was a lot of fun, discussing baseball and cars, and made it seem like a place where I'd love to hang out, if I hung out anywhere. Now we know where to ease a crab cake jones (which are frequent), we'll be back. Often.

Koco's Pub and Grill
4301 Harford Rd
Baltimore, MD 21214
(410) 426-3519

Koco's Pub and Grill on Urbanspoon

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