Friday, January 27, 2012

Ten Ten

We love Restaurant Week because it allows us to try new-to-us restaurants at an affordable price. This time around, one of the tastiest-looking menus belonged to the restaurant Ten Ten. Located in a handsome brick-walled space in the Bagby Building, Ten Ten offers what has become known as "modern American" cuisine: familiar foods prepared with locally-sourced ingredients and strong international influences.

Ten Ten's Restaurant Week menu, which leans toward Italy, allowed us to try three courses for $30.12. We started off with the flatbread and gnocchi appetizers. My flatbread had a nice combination of meat and cheese, but I did find the jam to be just a little bit too sweet for my taste. Fresh figs would be dynamite, however, in season.

Fig-orange jam, duck confit, goat cheese, Asiago and arugula on grilled Naan bread
Ricotta gnocchi, wilted leeks, Boursin cream, toasted hazelnut
Mr Minx's gnocchi was just about perfect. The tender dumplings had that indescribable flavor that the Chinese call "wok hai," which means they must have been heated in an incredibly hot pan. The cheese sauce was surprisingly light, and the hazelnuts added a perfect contrasting crunch.

Ordinarily, I don't order chicken or pasta when we go out to dinner, but I was glad I did this time. The portion of skin-on chicken breast in my rosemary chicken fusilli was perfectly cooked, the meat was fork-tender and the crisped skin was flavored with garlic. Rosemary flavored the baby spinach, cooked just long enough that the vegetables' natural astringency was tempered. The smoked mushrooms were an unusual addition, and the grated cheese added the right amount of sharpness.

Rosemary chicken fusilli, smoked mushrooms, caramelized onions, Grana Padano, baby spinach, pan sauce
Blackened Delmonico steak, smoked tomato butter, gorgonzola mashed potatoes
Mr Minx ordered the steak, which was extremely tender and flavorful. I would have preferred that the steak have more of a crust on the outside, to lend textural contrast. I didn't notice any gorgonzola in the potatoes, but they were exceedingly creamy and lovely nonetheless. What the dish really needed was a bit of green vegetable, perhaps something like the spinach with my pasta.

On to dessert. I'm a sucker for gingerbread, so I just had to taste Ten Ten's version, which was properly molasses-y and very moist. The butterscotch custard would make a lovely dessert on its own, but my favorite part was the buttery, nutty praline.

Gingerbread sponge cake, butterscotch custard, brandied tangerines, crunchy praline
Chocolate hazelnut torte, citrus gelee, hazelnut brittle, cocoa nib
Mr Minx's dessert also included a crunchy candy element in an absolutely delicious, non-sticky, hazelnut brittle. The torte echoed the flavor of the hazelnuts and added chocolate; the yellow cake layers kept the dish from being overly chocolaty (yes, there is such a thing).

Overall, the meal was quite good. Portions seemed small, particularly my pasta, but everything was so rich that by the time we were finished, we were completely satisfied and then some. I think our next visit might have to be during happy hour, when they offer duck fat fries, pork rillettes, and brioche beignets at the bar, along with a selection of interesting cocktails, at $5 a pop.

Ten Ten
1010 Fleet Street
Baltimore, MD 21202
(410) 244-6867
bagbys1010.com

Ten Ten on Urbanspoon

Posted on Minxeats.com.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Rachel vs Guy Celebrity Cook-Off Recipes!

Took Food Network a while to get these up; I know you've been champing at the bit to fry up some of Coolio's "Soul rolls," and to make Joey FatOne's Mighty Meatball Sliders and Shrimpin' Pimpin' Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp.

I know I haven't.

I'm kinda surprised (yet not) that they didn't include a recipe for Lou Diamond Phillips' barbecue sloppy Joe thingies, or Taylor Dayne's bruschetta with figs and proscuitto.

Posted on Minxeats.com.

Top Chef Texas Episode 12 Recap

This week's episode starts out with a scene of the cheftestants in the stew room after the verdict has been delivered. Nobody pretends to be sad that Beverly is gone, apart from Grayson, who is possibly too nice for her own good. And then Charlize Theron comes in to hide; Tom has apparently been chasing her all around the studio, asking her to autograph his head.

The next morning, upon entering the Top Chef GE Conveyor Belt Kitchen, the six remaining cheftestants find Padma standing with regular judge Emeril Lagasse and this episode's guest judge Cat Cora. Cat is there for one reason only: to plug her upcoming Bravo show, Around the World in 80 Plates. Her co-star will be creepy Aussie Curtis Stone, so it's a safe bet I will not be watching that hot mess. Anyhoo...once they get the plug in, the challenge begins.

Padma pairs up the chefs into three teams: Team Red is Sarah and Lindsay, Team Green is Grayson and Squinty, and Team White is Ed and Paul. Each team must peel and devein a gazillion shrimp, shuck and de-silk umpty-three ears of corn, and make 43.6 pounds of fresh fettuccine - all in forty minutes. But wait - there's more! They will then have to use the resulting mise en place to create a dish in whatever time they have left. All of this is told to us by Padma in a voice-over with such poor sound quality it seems to have been recorded in an airplane bathroom during turbulence.

And what's with Padma's...dress? She looks to be wearing one of Larry the Cable Guy's shirts.

All three teams are smart and head for the pasta first, since they know that will take the most time to make. Despite being in a hurry, none of the six manages to maim themselves with pickle forks or apple peeler/corer/slicers or whatnot during this challenge!

Red Team is the first to complete their meez, so they have more time to fiddle around with a pasta dish. Unfortunately they use tarragon, and Cat Cora doesn't like tarragon. Team White finishes second, but Paul forgets to cook the shrimp for the dish, so they are disqualified. Finally, Team Green, despite having the shortest amount of actual cooking time, pulls off a shrimp and bacon pasta that is good enough to get them the win. There's no immunity at this point, but the two chefs get to share $10,000.

On to the Elimination Challenge. Padma immediately breaks up the teams and tells them they will now be competing head-to-head. Or as they say in Spanish, cabeza a cabeza. Not to be confused with calabaza a calabaza, although, some cheftestants' heads are, at times, quite indistinguishable from pumpkins.

Each pair will choose a dish appropriate to serve to 200 people at a block party and each half of that pair will prepare his or her own version of that dish. The chefs pow-wow and Ed and Paul decide to make Korean short ribs, or kal bi. Lindsay and Sarah settle on meatballs. And Squints and Grayson go for chicken salad. And then Padma throws them a twist - they have to make diet versions of their chosen dish, because this challenge is sponsored by Flavorless Healthy Choice!

Groans all around, mostly from me.

The chefs get 2.5 hours to prep their dishes at the Culinary Institute of America kitchen. Squinty reveals that he's making a tofu-based sauce for his salad, and people will never believe it's not mayonnaise! And I'll never believe that statement! Paul is using ground turkey for his kal bi, which he will be serving ssam style with lettuce wraps. Ed, for some odd reason, despite this being a Healthy Choice challenge, is going with traditional beef short ribs. Now, we all know that the whole reason short ribs are so delicious is because they are fatty and full of cholesterol. Instead of the traditional rice accompaniment, full of empty calories, he's making...steamed buns. But hey! They're homemade steamed buns! And...steamed buns are so trendy! That's using your calabaza!

Ed, I'm thinking you know as much about healthy food as Paula Deen. Allow me to enlighten you. The packaged low-cal food industry would have us believe that "healthy" food involves boneless skinless chicken breast, Special K, no salt, and a lot of onion powder - guaranteed to stink up the microwave in your workplace kitchenette without adding any actual flavor to the dish.

A properly healthy diet also includes a generous dose of guilt for every time one merely looks at a tub of Ben & Jerry's Chunky Junky in My Trunky ice cream.

After packing up their shit, the cheftestants head to their outdoor venue, which is 105F in the shade and infested with bees. Squinty no like bees and says if a couple of them zap him, he'll swell up like the Sta-Puft Marshmallow Man. Part of me wants to see that. Part of me is also terrified of bees.

The hungry hoards rush in to eat, along with our intrepid panel of judges and Food & Wine's Dana Cowin. They are each carrying a bag of food for the San Antonio Food Bank. Do you think they are donating the typical expired cans of Dinty Moore stew and creamed corn, or something more exotic, like corn cobs and shrimp peelings from the most recent Quickfire?

Season 4's Ryan Scott is on hand as a "flavor ambassador" for Healthy Choice.

The judges do the rounds and declare Paul's lettuce-wrapped turkey to be simply delicious, and impressive in that he built layers of flavor without using fat. Ed's meat, on the other hand, was tough and chewy. [Insert joke here.] The chicken salad chefs were meh and more meh. Grayson's didn't have a lot of flavor, but she did make her sandwiches to order, while Squinty's bread had dried out from sitting in the heat and his tofu mayo didn't impress anyone. Plus, his sandwiches were covered in bee poop. Then the Meatball Girls came up to bat. Lucky for them, both Lindsay's and Sarah's balls o' ground protein were fine and dandy. Predictably, Cat Cora raved over Lindsay's Greek-ish balls.

The winning chef from each head-to-head match-up was chosen by the 200 non-judge diners, who preferred Paul's, Grayson's, and Lindsay's dishes over those of their competitors. The overall winner was then selected by Tom, Emeril, and Cat Cora. While they really seemed to love Lindsay's veal and lamb concoction, they were blown away by Paul's dish and gave him yet another win, and a cool $15,000 for his wallet. That brings him up to, what, $50,000 so far?

Bet he'll have lots of date offers when he gets back home.

As the low scorers, Ed, Squinty, and Sarah are on the chopping block. Sarah is safe because her dish was really good, it just wasn't as good as Lindsay's. Boo. I was really hoping one of those harpies would go this week. Instead, it's starting to look like Ed has made the most egregious errors: he really didn't pay attention to the healthy portion of the challenge, and his meat was tough. Squinty did indeed try to make his dish light, but as always, he's all about the ideas and not so much about the execution. Tom is apparently tired of the whole magic Moto cuisine schtick and Squints is sent home.

Next week: Pee Wee Herman and bicycles!


Posted on Minxeats.com.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Post-Christmas Cookies

We had our annual cookie-fest at Casa Minx in the week before Christmas, making the usual chocolate chippers and snickerdoodles, plus a batch of white chocolate/dried cherry cookies from a recipe I had obtained from a friend. (You can find that recipe in the December Minxeats Newsletter. Don't get the newsletter? Then click here to subscribe!) After giving many of them to my brother and eating still more of them for Christmas dessert, by mid-January, we were in a sad state of affairs as far as our cookie inventory was concerned. Since I recently had a nice long weekend thanks to Martin Luther King, Jr., I thought it might be nice to put one of those days aside for baking.

A while back, I had bookmarked a recipe for Red Velvet cookies because: 1) Mr Minx likes Red Velvet cake; 2) they seemed so easy. Honestly, I should know better than to use boxed cake mix, especially cake mix that contains a quantity of red food dye. The cookies came out looking like a sunburnt version of Thing and tasted like, I dunno...propylene glycol, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, and monocalcium phosphate.

Fail.

The bar cookies I'm going to call Reconstructed Florentines, came out much better. I figured Florentines were a tasty way of using up candied orange peel left over from making fruitcakes, but I didn't want to deal with the potentially messy chocolate-coated classic version of the cookie. The bar cookie version was nearly perfect, except that I think they would be better with a crisper crust (mine was more like cake). I also varied the recipe by omitting the cherries and using almond flour in place of the chopped almonds (because that's what I had on hand).  

Finally, because Mr Minx is not a big fan of candied orange peel, we baked a third cookie, this time a variation of Milk Bar's Christina Tosi's cornflake chocolate chip marshmallow cookies. We didn't have marshmallows, nor was I about to whip up a batch of "cornflake crunch," so we omitted the former and just used handfuls of plain cornflakes for the latter.

Despite chilling the dough for the required one hour before baking, we had some issues with the resulting cookie. They weren't quite the same flat puddles as the last time I tried a Milk Bar cookie recipe - they were super crispy, somewhat brittle this time - but they were still too flat. Tasted fine though, with a sort of brown-butter-ish note.

I think the problem is that the sugar/butter-to-flour ratios on these cookies are way off from proportions that usually work for me. Compare Tosi's recipe to the classic Nestlé Toll House recipe: both require one cup of butter, but Tosi's calls for a bit more sugar and 3/4 cup less flour. Next time, I need to remember to use more flour to get a crunchier, heartier cookie.

I see cookie experimentation in my future.

Posted on Minxeats.com.

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