Wednesday, January 22, 2025

NY Dining, Winter 2025 Edition

I can't believe I just had to type 2025!

And yes, despite the extreme cold that's been hanging around in the mid-Atlantic region, I packed my stuff and headed to my personal Disneyland, my happiest place on Earth--New York City. And I ate some stuff. But not as much as usual. Still, stuff. Allow me to share my musings on my dining experiences.

My first meal of the trip was a Monday lunch. I briefly contemplated two courses at Cafe Carmellini, but decided the handsome amount of money that would involve should go toward a bottle of perfume. My main agenda for the three day excursion revolved around visiting various perfume shops, with the intention of making at least one fragrant purchase. (I made five.)

One of the stops on my list was The Maker Hotel shop on 16th Street, so for the sake of convenience, I ate lunch next door at The Grey Dog Chelsea.

Guacamole toast? They were very generous with the toppings.
The avocado toast sounded good. What I wanted was a nice piece of seeded multigrain toast topped with several slices of perfectly salted avocado and a fried egg. I got the bread, but the avocado was excessively lime-y, rather mashed, and much more like guacamole than I was in the mood for. My over-medium eggs were perfect though, and the side of home fries was tasty enough though completely unnecessary. (I can't put away as much food as I was able to in the past.)

I had popped into Levain Bakery before lunch to grab a gluten-free cookie for later. It was one of their typically behemoth, scone-sized, lumps--which is really quite delicious when made with gluten. And not at all delicious when made with gluten-free flour. It tasted...gluten-free, which can be a rather sad flavor when one is used to the taste of wheat flour. 

That evening, I had dinner at the bar at Zaytinya. One of Jose Andres' original DC concepts, there is now a location not far from my usual hotel. Since I had passed on a spendy lunch and was disappointed with what I did eat, I thought I'd splurge on something that was bound to be delicious. After all, one of my favorite meals in NY is pretty much anything at his Hudson Yards food hall, Little Spain. Especially the eggs with morcilla (blood sausage). Incredibly, I found everything at Zaytinya to be...meh. The za'atar margarita seemed a little saltier than a normal marg, but it didn't scream of za'atar. The scallops were a relative bargain at $23 for four fat ones, but the rather flavorless apple cacik (the Turkish version of tzatziki) really didn't work for me, and the promised "sesame rose spice" was undetectable. I hoped the smoked beet salata would remind me of the incredible beet and pistachio salad I had eaten last summer at a local French restaurant. It did not. There was too much arugula and the honeycrisp apple chunks had zero flavor (and was probably the same kind of apple included in the scallops' sauce). The beets themselves were fine, though I'd have preferred more of them. Finally, though I didn't need a third dish, I ordered the brussels sprouts because the waiter was still looking at me expectantly. I requested the garlic yogurt to be served on the side (and should have done so with the cacik) as I am lactose-intolerant. The sprouts were nicely crispy, but were otherwise rather boring. A disappointment.

My palate fared much better on day two, which I started at Dominique Ansel Workshop. A perfectly fluffy and tender French omelette filled with Boursin cheese and nestled into a crisp croissant made a perfect breakfast, especially paired with a big cup of La Colombe cafe au lait d'avoine (oatmilk). 

scallop toast
Later, I met up with my friend Daisy, whose company makes even the most delicious meal that much better than it would be without her. We dined at Chinese Tuxedo, a contemporary Chinese restaurant in Chinatown. Among the dishes we sampled were the braised black pepper oxtail bun, crystal shrimp spring roll, and scallop toast from the dim sum menu (all fantastic)...

...and the Johny fried rice with shrimp, char siu, and pork floss, the stir fried Snake River beef sirloin with kampot pepper, and the stir fried iceberg lettuce. Again, all fantastic. I'd eat there again.

Mealtime with Daisy usually means multiple stops, so after walking a bit, we took a cab up to Koreatown and had a few super crispy wings at Turntable on 33rd Street. The flavors were bright and the texture appealing. In retrospect, these wings were the culinary highlight of my entire trip.

The next morning, I had a nice breakfast at The Harold, which is conveniently located near my hotel. I ordered the wild mushroom scramble, which was had to include 3-4 eggs and a good half pound of mushrooms. I knew there'd be toast, but not the rosemary potatoes. They're delicious, but made for far too much to eat in one sitting. Next time, I'll ask them to omit the 'taters. 

For a snack, I enjoyed a Midnight Dream (black sesame, espresso, oatmilk) at Elorea, a cute Korean perfume shop with a coffee bar at the back. (I will be going back someday to make a fragrance purchase.)

Finally, I had an early dinner/late lunch at Parm. This is their eggplant parmesan on a sesame seed roll. My server said it was his favorite thing on the menu, and suggested I get the hoagie-sized version so I could take half home for later. I stuck with the small. It was good, but lacking in textures other than soft. I've mentioned this in the past, but I really miss my mother's fried eggplant. But maybe I'm just obsessed with the memory of the flavor of Progresso Italian Bread Crumbs?

The Grey Dog
242 W 16th St, New York, NY 10011

Levain Bakery
2 W 18th St, New York, NY 10011

Zaytinya
1185 Broadway, New York, NY 10001

Dominique Ansel Workshop
17 E 27th St, New York, NY 10016

Chinese Tuxedo
5 Doyers St, New York, NY 10013

Turntable
20 W 33rd St, New York, NY 10001

The Harold
1271 Broadway, New York, NY 10001

Elorea
41 Spring St, New York, NY 10012

Parm
248 Mulberry St, New York, NY 10012

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Monday, January 06, 2025

Best of 2024

As usual, we ate a lot of good food last year. Here are some of the highlights. 

January 
This monstrous beef short rib wrapped in laminated brioche dough at Dominique Ansel Workshop in NY was freaking amazing. It was expensive, and I had to eat it standing up at a tiny table in the bakery, but it was so worth the price and inconvenience. Would 100% do it again. 

February
This chicken in milk doesn't look too great, but it was astonishingly delicious. Garlicky, creamy perfection. I am heartbroken that Tbiliso closed in the spring. We had several really great meals there, and I will miss all the various iterations of cheese-filled bread they offered.

March
I've never had a bad meal at La Cuchara. I can't imagine I ever will.

Obligatory Squire's pizza shot. Everything minus green peppers is our standard order. Perfection every time. 

April
The eggplant parm at Cecconi's in Manhattan was pretty pricey, but it came with a salad, was more than enough for two, and even tasted good cold. AND, it was vegan and gluten free. The restaurant seemed fancy, which made my BFF Andree and I feel fancy, too.

I make gazpacho a lot, and sometimes I put shrimp on it. Always great. 

May
I make beans fairly often. These gigante beans stewed with tomatoes and topped with homemade pesto were one of my favorite versions.

This duck confit, on the menu briefly at True Chesapeake, was the best I've ever eaten. 

I was fortunate enough to get some exceptional soft shells a few times this year. These came from Johnny's in Roland Park.

June
I can't get enough of the quesobirria tacos at El Salto.

July
I had the best lobster roll of my life at lunch at The Food Market. It was huge, the meat regularly tumbling out of the roll onto the plate, and it had bacon on it. Bacon.

August
While Neal's birthday dinner at Marta was overall fairly disappointing, this foie gras terrine was outstanding, as was my caprese cocktail. Neal enjoyed his beverage as well. 

Crab-topped gazpacho and crabcake grilled cheese. Yes, I am a genius.

September
Went to Pappas for restaurant week just to get these soft shells. The ones from Johnny's earlier in the year were great, but these were even better. And the pickled beets! Outstanding! 

Farmers' market tomato sandwich with Duke's mayo on Pepperidge Farm white bread. 'Nuff said.

October
Speaking of beets, this beet salad with pistachios from Petit Louis was truly one of the best things I ate all year. 

Cacio i pepe spaghetti squash served in an acorn squash at The Food Market inspired me to make a carbonara dish the following month. Amazing. 

November
For the last several years, our Thanksgiving dinner has looked like the photo above: charcuterie, cheese, olives, lots of booze. This time I used some puff pastry that had been hanging out in the freezer for a while to make tasty pinwheels of goodness, filled with sundried tomato tapenade and Parmesan cheese. I will be making these forevermore. 

I made my own birthday dinner this year - eggplant parm. I haven't found a restaurant version I especially liked--excepting the $28 one at Cecconi's (see above)--so I thought I'd try my hand at it. I used Progresso Italian breadcrumbs, which is what my mom always used, but they weren't quite the same. More salt, less cheese and herbs? Just different. My brother also noticed the difference. Next time, I'll add more basil, oregano, and definitely more parm.

December
I made gluten free gingerbread using a recipe from the blog Cotter Crunch. It was utterly fabulous. I used Mightylicious gluten free flour, which may or may not have been a key element in the success of this treat.

This potato leek soup from Petit Louis may seem simple, but it was smooth, rich, subtle, and far more than the sum of its parts.

I like stopping into Golden West for lunch before my thrice-yearly hair appointment at Brazen. Most recently, I enjoyed their vegan chicken and waffles. The waffle was lightly spiced, which made the dish even more delicious than the usual poultry version.

* Any products in this post that are mentioned by name may have been provided to Minxeats by the manufacturer. However, all opinions belong to Minxeats. Amazon links earn me $! Please buy!

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Monday, December 16, 2024

Restaurant Leftovers

Don't look too closely at the hands in this AI-generated image that was edited in Photoshop.
The Food & Wine site has a piece on the annoyance some servers feel when customers want to take their uneaten food--which they paid for--home. The whole concept annoyed me enough to write about it. Go read the article and then come back here for my rant.


My opinion: Suck it up, Buttercup! I just paid good money for this food that I can't possibly finish because: 1) I ordered and consumed an app; 2) your portion sizes are too large; 3) I have a dog who enjoys fancy food; 4) I shouldn't have to give you a reason because I PAID FOR THIS FOOD. ALSO, reason #5 which should really be reason #1: food waste is despicable. People who leave food behind in restaurants are entitled brats. No, I'm not going to mention the "starving children in China" or whatever bullshit our parents attempted to guilt us with when we wouldn't finish our boiled brussels sprouts. I am, however, going to guilt you with the amount of labor and natural resources it took to produce the food you're too good to take home with you. Farmers, laborers, butchers, bakers, food inspectors, distributors, cooks, waitstaff, restaurant inspectors, water, electricity, gasoline, and cooking fuel are used to create even the most basic fast food cheeseburger. Years ago, when I was considered an "influencer" (Instagram's algorithm has reconsidered since then), I was invited to a restaurant opening and had the misfortune to share a booth with a couple other "influencers" I didn't know very well. One of them ordered the most outlandish item on the menu--a deep-fried burger--took a bite for photographs, and left the rest on the plate, uneaten. He didn't take the leftovers. This was years ago and I am still pissed when I think about it. 

(There are a few exceptions to my rule. The first is staying in a hotel room that isn't equipped with a fridge. If it's winter, there's snow on the ground, and the room has a balcony...maybe. Otherwise, it's not safe to keep most leftovers un-refrigerated. Bread, muffins, croissants, and non-dairy-filled pastries are ok. Everything else could eventually fall victim to bacterial growth. I don't need that. Second, if I'm attending some sort of long event immediately after the meal, say going to the theatre or a concert, especially if I'm traveling from restaurant to venue on foot. Finally, if the food was truly bad, or under- or overcooked. In that case, I would have brought it to the attention of my server and the situation should have been remedied by the kitchen. But sometimes that doesn't happen.)

Also, I realize that some people are so inept at cooking that they can't fathom repurposing a leftover cheeseburger. Which is beyond sad. Take the filling out of the bun, pop it in the microwave for 45 seconds, re-bun it, and eat. There are plenty other ways to use leftovers, but that's another post for another day.)

For the servers who whine about having to send out a busboy to pack my leftovers: I am perfectly capable of doing so myself. In fact, I prefer to do it myself. Just give me a small container and I will happily scrape my own plate. And yes, I am going to take any (good) bread that is left because otherwise it will be thrown away. If a restaurant is not throwing it away, and repurposing something that was touched and possibly coughed on by the customer, I'd like to know because I will never set foot in that establishment. (It's good to avoid bread pudding for that very reason.)

I guess now I need to create some posts about reusing leftover restaurant food, huh? For now, please to enjoy the most popular post on Minxeats regarding making hash browns out of french fries.

* Any products in this post that are mentioned by name may have been provided to Minxeats by the manufacturer. However, all opinions belong to Minxeats. Amazon links earn me $! Please buy!

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Thursday, September 26, 2024

Throwback Thursday: Manhattan's K-Town

This originally appeared here on March 11, 2019.
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I’m going to let you in on a secret: I am not a New Yorker. However, I visit on business (and occasionally pleasure) several times a year and always try to stay in the same hotel. Or at least in the same neighborhood--Koreatown. This little one-block square area in Midtown Manhattan runs from 5th Avenue to Broadway and includes 31st and 32nd Streets, which actually makes the “block” a trapezoid. There’s a bit of spillover to the other side of 5th Ave, too. In any case, this compact area is studded with restaurants, bakeries, and bars, a handful of hotels, and is a convenient 2-block walk from Penn Station. That was the original selling point for me, the proximity to transportation, but after staying in the area a few times, I realized that if I were ever too busy to think about where to eat, I could have breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks without going very far in any direction. (Truthfully though, there has never been a time in my life that was too busy to exclude thoughts of food.) I also discovered that the alleged “city that never sleeps” does indeed roll up the sidewalks after dinner, at least in Midtown on a Monday night. On one occasion, I emerged from the Herald Square subway station at 1am after spending most of the evening elsewhere in the city. I was somewhat alarmed to realize that I was the only soul on the street. Fortunately, my hotel was nearby, in the middle of a block that is always busy, thanks to the surfeit of 24-hour Korean BBQ restaurants and late night karaoke bars.

Bibimbap at New Wonjo
 Among those 24-hour BBQ joints are The Kunjip, New Wonjo, and missKOREA, all on 32nd Street. missKOREA involves three floors of bbq, each with different decor and separate menus. The first floor has a somewhat naturalistic, hanging-out-in-the-forest, vibe, the second is more serene and modeled after traditional Korean study rooms, and the third floor is contemporary and spare. Diners have the option of ordering bbq both in set menus and a la carte, but also as part of multicourse feasts that include starters, a course of either hot pot or crepes served with meat and vegetables, the bbq main dish, a noodle or rice preparation, and dessert. The Kunjip and New Wonjo are both more casual restaurants with fairly straightforward menus that include stews, noodle dishes, and bibimbap as well as bbq cooked at the table.

Matcha latte at Grace Street
Three other restaurants, Gammeeok, Shanghai Mong, and Abiko Curry, are also open around the clock. Gammeeok specializes in seolleongtang, a rich soup made by simmering beef bones for many hours so all of the marrow, fat, calcium, and collagen are extracted, broken into tiny particles, and suspended in broth which turns a milky white, rather somewhat like tonkotsu ramen broth. They also serve bossam (braised pork belly, sliced and served with kimchi and usually cabbage leaves in which to wrap it), housemade sundae (blood sausage), and a few kinds of Korean pancakes. Shanghai Mong bills itself as an Asian Bistro; in addition to Korean dishes, they also serve pad Thai, udon, pho, and many Chinese-restaurant-style dishes like General Tso’s or sweet and sour chicken. If you like Japanese-style curry, and you like it spicy, you’ll probably enjoy Abiko Curry. Curry was introduced to Japan by the British, and it’s flavor is closer to the yellow-hued curry powder in your pantry than to that of Indian dishes like vindaloo or rogan josh, yet it’s also very much its own thing. Abiko simmers their curry for “100 hours” and offers a gravy-like version served with rice or noodles, and a thicker cream sauce mixed with pasta. Dishes can be customized with toppings like fried squid, raw eggs, pork cutlets, and cheese; the spiciness can also be ordered to taste, but be forewarned that even “level 2” packs some real heat. I like the donburi bowls, a mound of rice topped with some sauce, lots of sauteed onions, and a protein of your choosing. It’s not spicy at all but completely delicious.

Donburi at Abiko Curry
Several other BBQ joints dot the K-town landscape on both sides of 5th Avenue: Jongro; Her Name is Han; Dons Bogam; Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong. All have more limited hours than the round-the-clock places, and each has its fans. On quite the opposite side of the spectrum; rather than piles of meaty goodness, mushrooms and tofu are the stars at Hangawi, the rare Korean vegetarian restaurant. They also have what might be the ultimate Instagrammer’s meal: a hot stone bowl filled with rice, vegetables, and...avocado. Beats avocado toast any day.

If you’re in the mood for something sweet, you’re in luck. Everything from green tea lattes to fancy French-style cakes can be found in Koreatown. My favorite bakeries are Tous Le Jours and Paris Baguette. The former has a wide variety of pastries, both familiar and not. Croissants are big and brown and beautiful, but the much more homely hot dog encased in a squid ink roll with cheese inside and out has its merits, too. There are also French baguettes and loaves of fluffy Korean milk bread, donuts, and flaky pastries filled with everything from red beans to chocolate to sausages. Paris Baguette has a smaller selection of similar products, plus fancier layer and roll-style cakes. Both bakeries offer specialty coffee drinks as well. More coffee can be found at Grace Street, an expansive cafe that has an equally large menu of hot and iced coffee and tea drinks, including matcha, milk tea, and cocoa. Grace Street also serves waffles with various toppings, and something called shaved snow, a light and feathery frozen dessert made from blocks of flavored ice milk shaved into silky ribbons.and topped with things like red beans, condensed milk, or mango puree. Across 5th Avenue one will find Besfren, a dessert shop with a much smaller selection of pastries, but also delicious giant triple chocolate chip cookies, matcha/taro swirl soft serve ice cream, and a selection of ginseng products. Only want tea? Gong Cha is a closet-sized space that serves a seemingly infinite number of hot and cold tea drinks in flavors like familiar Earl Grey and Oolong but also wintermelon and taro. Order your tea topped with simple milk foam, or with boba, red beans, basil seeds, coconut or herbal jelly, or pudding (somewhat like flan)...even with all of the above. Don’t forget to grab a wide straw to suck up all the solids, because a regular straw simply will not do the trick.

If you’re not sure what exactly you want to eat, step into Food Gallery 32, a food court where you’ll find everything from Korean fried chicken, bibimbap, and ddukbboki to the savory Chinese crepes called jianbing, churros, and frozen yogurt. Seating is communal and the place always seems crowded, but it’s great for the undecided among us.

Fried dumplings at Mandoo Bar
And that’s not all, folks. There are at least two gastropubs in K-town, Itaewon and Osamil, and restaurants specializing in fresh tofu (BCD Tofu House) and Korean dumplings (Mandoo Bar), plus a somewhat more fancy restaurant called Gaonnuri. Located on the 39th floor of 1250 Broadway, overlooking Herald Square, Gaonnuri has some of the best panoramic views of the city. They offer both tableside bbq and entrees like bibimbap, but also fish dishes involving black cod, sea bass, and monkfish. I like the seasonal tasting menu, which at $115 per person isn’t exactly a bargain, but it does include 6 savory courses and dessert. There’s also a more economical $55 three-course prix fixe that includes bbq, but the whole table must participate.

I’m sure I’ve missed more than a few places, but I hope I’ve hit on enough to lure you into a stroll through New York’s Koreatown. There’s no shortage of food (there’s even an H Mart if you are in the mood or have the ability to prepare a meal for yourself) in this relatively small area. Shops too, if you’re into Korean beauty products. It’s definitely a neighborhood worth a visit.

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* Any products in this post that are mentioned by name may have been provided to Minxeats by the manufacturer. However, all opinions belong to Minxeats. Amazon links earn me $! Please buy!

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