Billed as "contemporary Thai," Kin Shop's menu is full of items familiar to lovers of Thai food: laab; tom kha; massaman; chu chee. But that laab is made with duck and is so spicy that it merits 4 asterisks. The tom kha soup has features uncharacteristic snake beans and crispy taro, the massaman is made with goat, purple yams, and mustard greens, and the chu chee involves monkfish and Meyer lemon. And it all sounded so good, we weren't quite sure what to order.
The dish that caught my eye first was a salad of fried pork and oysters with celery, peanuts, mint, and a chili-lime vinaigrette. It was a pretty generous portion, with three large, crisply-battered, tender oysters and three slabs of battered and fried pork, topped with shaved celery, pickled red onion, a ton of green herbs, and a smattering of peanuts. What's the Thai word for delicious? Aroy mak mak! (Very very delicious.)
Baltimore needs a contemporary Thai restaurant like this, someplace that's not afraid to experiment with Thai flavors combined with non-traditional ingredients. I really want to say, "I'll be back," and mean it this time, but I have a feeling that the next Dieterle restaurant I visit will have to be the Marrow. Only then I can go back to revisit Kin Shop, and yes, Perilla. Unless of course Dieterle opens a fourth restaurant....
Posted on Minxeats.com.