The meal consisted of 5 courses + an amuse bouche. When we got the preliminary menu via e-mail, I was worried that I wouldn't enjoy the food, as I don't eat veal, am not fond of rabbit, and have a serious, inexplicable aversion to breakfast sausage. But I found those to be some the least of the meal's problems. Even so, I came away with an appreciation for the way the restaurant prepares meats. Four of the five portions of meat we were served were perfectly cooked and seasoned. Additionally, the majority of the accompaniments were also close to perfect. The big problem was that few components actually worked together.
|foie gras torchon, pomegranate & cherry jam, pain perdu|
|rabbit loin confit, endive hot and cold, hazelnuts, pickled enoki|
mushrooms, port wine emulsion
|sausage stuffed quail, maple poached quail egg, Anson Mills stone |
ground oats, house hot sauce
|bacon-wrapped veal loin, cauliflower puree, red wine ravioli|
|venison backstrap, aged cheddar grits, snail & piopini|
mushroom ragout, escargot butter
|apple & pare pavé, apple caramel ice cream, apple gastrique|
Sous chef Ryan Krumm took credit for the meal, which may have been a bit overly-ambitious. Clearly he has some mad skillz when it comes to meat prep, but some of his combinations were real misfires. Had the meal consisted of an endive salad with hazelnuts, a soup made from the cauliflower purée, and the venison dish, perhaps with an amuse of the foie paired with the dessert's gastrique, it would have been far more successful. As it stands, however, it was a bit of a disappointment.
While this particular meal did not rise to the very high expectations I had of Bluegrass, I'd like to go back someday soon to try offerings from the regular menu - the crawfish hushpuppies, the lamb shank, the charcuterie. There's definitely huge potential for a great dining experience.
1500 S. Hanover Street
Baltimore, MD 21230